Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Footloose in Khairpur

This is an inside view of the entrance to Khairpur Mir's' Faiz Mahal. Khairpur is a district in Northern Sindh and is closer to Sukkur than my office is to my home in Karachi. Translated, that would mean it's enjoyably close.

Khairpur was governed by the Shi'ite Mirs of Baloch origin at the time of independence of Pakistan in 1947. At that time, Khairpur state opted to join Pakistan, and the rest is a very murky history of which I got a one-sided loaded account so we'll keep that for another day when I'm more knowledgeable.

The Mirs, also known as Talpurs, live in the palace known as Faiz Mahal to this day - and on the day of our visit, they kindly let us in. The names are interesting here. "Khairpur" would translate as "the city of well-ness" or "the city of blessings." "Faiz" itself means a continuous charity or a continuous blessing. But it's not just the names that are so wholesome. It's the aura of the place.

Even though many treasures of the palace are largely in need of attention and the city itself is not very developed, the place has a stillness and a feeling on content that is better felt than described. Before the city turns blazing hot in summers, this is a good time to visit.

I fell in love with the place. And with someone who will take years to reach the age I am today. Sigh! That's a first for my otherwise geriatric-focused romantic tastes.

Ahem. No, it's not me. It's the place. I loved the way Faiz Mahal looked so rich and so warm in the sunlight. I loved the chowkidar - the watchman - who my host had warned was media-phobic. But he loved the camera! I loved that, and... well, I tell you, love was in the air!

There is much more that I have to share about Khairpur! The best of that place is in feeling it, rather than describing it. More to come on these pages.


  1. dont u just love visiting old places? re-living history in your own way?

    i love places which have a story behind them!


  2. love your blog.

  3. i am doing a campaign for sind tourism and faiz mahal in khairpur is one of the places that has been marked- so i googled to see hat i available and your blog was second :) would you have more pics of the place? just for my personal interest?